Don't just challenge the ocean, control it.
There are all sorts of ways of achieving this control. You need a basic repertoire of techniques. You need to be able to trim, to stall, to do a radical bottom turn, or a powerful pivoting turn in the top of the wave. Just plane fun.
Stunt- Riding is the very opposite of functional surfing.
Purely for thrills.
Coffin Ride
A stunt to preform when the wave becomes very hollow - only on waves 6ft.+ otherwise you will be smashed for being lame - is to lie on your back with your feet close to the nose so that as the tube breaks you will be encased in the wave. This is called a Coffin Ride. I don't think its a good surfing maneuver but it does look funny.
El Mexico
Spending an extended amount of time hunkered in the sand/dirt, digging trenches, and forming sand walls to protect our camp from the vicious tide of the Pacific.
This is SPARTA! We did well to protect ourselves but, others weren't so lucky or prepared and were eaten by the Pacific in the night.
Just beyond Sparta, a beautiful right hand gem.
!Viva Sparta!
